My South American Adventure

11th October 2011 – British Airways in World Traveller Plus to Buenos Aires – longest flight that BA fly!  13 hours and it seemed to last forever.  We had 65 minutes to transfer to our flight to Lima and onwards to Quito with LAN – we were met at the gangway by a LAN representative to say that our flight was either cancelled or very delayed to Lima so they were putting us on a direct flight to Quito as that was also delayed by one hour.  Only a slight problem as we were booked in business class between Buenos Aires and Lima and they only had premium economy on the flight…however, they gave us each a voucher for $680!!!

Ecuador

12th October – Arrive late afternoon at the Radisson Plaza Hotel – lovely modern hotel and small by today’s standards – very welcoming and the room was great.  Had an early supper and tried to sleep but woke up at 5.30am and raring to go…

13th October -First day on our own – visited the LAN office to see if they would give us the $1360 in cash but not to be…it would be credited to my mastercard but the paperwork was not ready so we were to go the next day so we set off to explore the Historic centre – La Compania – incredible church built in 1600s and full of gold leaf…walked thru Independence Plaza and then walked up to the La Basilica – David walked up to the top and got great photos of Quito..whilst I sat in the sunshine in the grounds of the church and had a cappuccino.  We then walked backed to Independence Plaza and had lunch in a restaurant called El Ricon del Fraile – on the first floor of a glass covered  small courtyard of the Bishop’s palace.  Great Ecuadorian food….a traditional dish called….which had steak with a fried egg on top plus lentils, rice, chips, avocado and salad…a huge amount of food all tasting good.

Made our way back to the hotel and had a couple of hours sleep to try and catch up on our jet lag.

Supper in local restaurant just around the corner of the hotel – again local food – fish.

14th October – transfer to Hotel Quito (large impersonal hotel and which obviously caters for groups) – room was basic even though it was “upgraded” to a king size executive room although it had no temperature control nor mini bar and it was faded splendour!

At 1400 we were collected by Gustavo of Klein Tours and went to Middle of the World…the equator where you can stand with one foot in the northern hemisphere and the other in the south.  Went to a village where it has been established where the real equator actually is – we could see how the locals lived centuries ago before the invasion of either the Spanish or the Incas.

We then went to see the French monument but this has since been proved to be in the wrong place.

Told Gustavo that we did not wish to go to the Historic centre again and settled for a coffee/tea.  He took us to a personal favourite restaurant which had the most incredible view of Quito and we spent a happy hour chatting about Ecuador, politics, schools, health system, family and vowed to keep in touch via Facebook.

15th October

Met the rest of the group – Maria & Rob, Paul and Jo and set off at 0800 – having borrowed a step from the hotel so I could get on the coach – to Otavalo Market via Peruche where we looked at a shop where they make figures from what looked like play dough and then on to Otavalo Market for an hour…colourful local market which sold anything from meat (live chicken), vegetables, fruit to clothes of every description and colour, local jewellery, hammocks and carved figures – managed to get an alpaca poncho for $20 which should come in very handy when we get to Patagonia.  Onto to Sumag Micuy Restaurant for lunch which consisted of roast chicken, vegetables, corn on the cob and potatoes and we had the opportunity of tasting guinea pig (I dipped out as we had seen it in the over with its head on!!) but David did taste it and like a lot of light meat thought it tasted of chicken.  After the meal we were treated to a rather amateurish display of music and dancing – all a bit painful.

After this we went to see a musician who made pan pipes…from reeds he cut and then tuned and bound together.  His daughters came out and they played a short tune – all hoping that we would buy something – either pan pipes or a CD..sadly they were disappointed.  We moved down the road to a weaver who showed us how to weave various fabrics but once again we all declined to buy!

Next stop was Cuicocha Lagoon – bit dreary and the very blue lagoon was decidedly grey.  David and the rest of the group went for a 30 minute trek in drizzle whilst I stayed in the van.  After a quick visit to the Cotacachi Leather market – basically a street of leather shops selling anything leather but nothing attractive or of a design that was desirable so once again nothing purchased.

Next stop was the Magdalena Community Karanki – long drive and the last part of it was on cobbled roads in the dark.  Arrived at the “main house” where we told that we were all to be separated and would be taken to a local house where we would eat and stay the night….bit daunting.  We were first off the van and were welcomed by 3 children – one waving an Ecuador flag – we were shown into a small one floor house – kitchen, living room, bedroom with ensuite shower room.  There was a roaring wood fire in the living room – it was lovely and warm – so much so that the family were far too hot.    They never have a fire in their house, come rain, shine, or winter!!We were introduced to the family – never found out what mother and father were called but their daughter Miriam was married to Orlando and they had 2 children – Jason and Chessi plus their 2 cousins Jesus and Melanie (odd to find that the names were strangely European).  Mother in the kitchen cooking our meal whilst we tried to converse with Miriam.  There were bottles on top of the fridge with prices on them – beer $2, coke $.50 etc plus a menu of eggs for breakfast…scrambled, fried, boiled – you just pointed to the one you wanted next morning!!  Fortunately for us Miriam’s English, whilst basic, was good enough to carry on a conversation.  Our meal arrived – huge pot of soup – mainly made of corn – and it was slightly embarrassing as it was assumed that we would eat whilst the others sat and watched.  Fortunately we were able to insist that Miriam and Orlando join us.  So we had a really enjoyable time trying to converse about their life in the community – Miriam did not work (but probably worked hard as they did not have the luxuries that we take for granted) and Orlando was a farmer.  We believe that the community had one tractor which was shared amongst the 10 families.  After soup we had fish and chips with carrots, peas and broccoli and lastly the tomato tree fruit.  Plenty for all and made us feel much better.

The children joined us after the meal and I produced my iphone and ipad both have several games on them.  Crash Bandicoot was a huge success!  The most amazing thing was that even though the 3 children wanted to play with the games they never argued about who played – they patiently waited their turn and willingly gave the ipad/iphone to the next child who was waiting – they shared and it was lovely to see.  When the 2 year old came in they took care that she was included and they sat her with them so she could see – never letting her hold one of the machines but showing her how to work it.  Something we have lost at home.

We all had an early night….mother had put hot water bottles in our beds and even though on first impression we thought the beds hard we both had a good night’s sleep.

16th October

Woke at 7am and heard the front door opening – mother was coming in to cook our breakfast…having milked the cow!  We were treated to homemade bread (like pita bread) with jam/butter followed by scrambled eggs.  Plus a good cup of coffee with hot milk.

The children soon joined us and it was obvious that they would like to play the games again…which I duly produced.

Mother regularly rose at 4am to do embroidery and she came in with a big bag of her work.  We rather felt obliged to buy and selected 4 table mats beautifully worked for $40.  Just wanted to give them something back for their generous hospitality.

We were then picked up and joined the rest of the group and it was soon obvious that we had really had the best evening.   The tour of the community continued by visiting all the houses that took in visitors….one was huge and almost a self catering apartment – this was followed by a presentation in the main house by Klein Tours about the community which they have funded and continue to do so.  They are keen for us agents to send them clients….but we would have to be very selective!!

David went off to have a horse ride around the countryside and I stayed back and talked to our guide Carmen…

Lunch consisted of another great soup, followed by roast pork, corn, avocado, potato with cheese and again tomato cherry fruit and coffee.

The trip back to Quito was mainly on a cobbled road – long, uncomfortable and we all wished we had gone back on the Pan American Highway – but we did get to see two cows tied together ploughing a field – the husband leading whilst the wife helped with turning them round.

Back at Hotel Quito we discovered that no alcohol is sold on Sunday in Ecuador!  David wanted a vodka and ginger ale and then the fun began.  We were told in the bar that we could order via room service but then they would not take the order as we had not got a “voucher”.  This turned out to be the credit card form which is normally lodged when you check into a hotel…on check in this time we were not asked for one….David went to reception and did the necessary paperwork.  Room service then decided that they did not have ginger ale.  We insisted that we had had a vodka and ginger ale a couple of days before but the man on the phone was adamant that it would have to be sprite.  10 minutes later a knock on the door and the waiter brought a tray in with 3 glasses on it – 2 containing ginger ale and the third being 1/2 full of vodka.. David was a happy boy!!

Met the others for supper at the restaurant on the 7th floor – odd it did not have a name – and they had just discovered that no alcohol could be served.  Sat down and had a good supper and also had an early night as we were leaving the hotel at 0600 in the morning for our flight to the Galapagos.

17th October

Impressed with Aerogal…new A320 airbus and the service/food was good.

Arrived in Baltra and I couldn’t get on the bus as the step was way too high so we were directed to a second bus which had a lower step.  The sky was blue and it was lovely and warm.  Short journey to the quayside and we could see the boat – Galapagos Legend.  Bit of a challenge as we transferred by zodiac – the staff convinced I could get on it (did have a life jacket!) and with lots of helping hands I did manage to haul myself into a sitting position on the zodiac.  Lots of helping hands to haul me onto the boat which was comforting.

After we were shown to our tiny cabin we went straight to the restaurant for lunch – it was here that we learnt that the boat, although in The Galapagos which is one hour behind Ecuador, operating on mainland time.  Lunch was tasty…buffet which included salad, honey fish, rice, vegetables and followed by fruit salad/cake and coffee.

Had a 30 minute briefing about the rules of The Galapagos and a brief description of the excursion to North Seymour this afternoon.  It has been decided that I will not go as there is a short hike over rough uneven ground….David will take lots of photos for me.

After a short sail we arrived at North Seymour – a small islet north of Baltra with the same arid vegetation such as prickly pear cacti and salt bushes. The island is home to the largest colony of frigate birds in the Galapagos as well as nesting blue footed boobies and swallow tailed gulls.  The sandy shore teems with Galapagos sea lions and marine iguanas. This was the season for the frigate birds – the male performing a courtship dance with their inflatable red pouches.

All the animals/birds are totally unaware of the danger of humans – so much so that they congregate and sometimes you just have to step over them!!

18th October

Overnight we sailed to Floreana and after a buffet breakfast it was time to take a walk in Santa Cruz toward a salt-water lagoon behind the beach to see pink flamingos – sadly only one turned up on the day!!  We trekked up to Dragon Hill which offered a lovely view of the bay.   This was also a nesting site for land iguanas.  We also spotted eagle rays, golden rays, sharks and sea turtles.

In the afternoon we sailed a little further round the island and stopped at Punta Cormoran – peaceful small island with extinct volcanic cones. Lots to see – birds, ducks, stilts and sandpipers.

At lunch we were given a dinner menu and had to choose in advance – the food was varied and surprisingly good!

19th October

Overnight we sailed (rather noisily and bumpily) to Espanola – one of the oldest islands in the archipelago.  It has one of the densest and most diverse concentrations of wildlife in the world.  We saw iguanas with their unique copper-red patches, sea lions, lava lizards, blue footed boobies, finches, swallow tailed gulls and the long billed mocking bird.  At Punta Suarez there is a spectacular blowhole, where thundering spray shoots 90 feet into the air!

Back on board for lunch and in the afternoon we docked at San Cristobal and went to see the giant turtle farm – they are breeding the turtles as there are an endangered species…we saw tiny week old turtles to 50 year olds meandering around the grounds.  Stopping in the very small town for a drink it was lovely to watch the sea lions wandering around on the pavement looking for a sunny spot to sleep – this included the park benches!!

20th October

I went on an early dingy ride to see more sea lions whilst David went  snorkelling – jolly cold and a wetsuit was definitely needed!!

Back to the airport for our flight to Quito (via Guayaquil) – Aerogal were impressive with their new A320 aircraft.  We bid farewell to our fellow travellers and waited at the airport for our flight to Lima on LAN.  The flight to Peru was good and we arrived at 2230 where we met Jorge and his wife Melanie who escorted us across the road to the Ramada Hotel.  Sat and had a coffee/chat and then off to bed.

PERU

21st October

Jorge once again met us at the hotel for breakfast and then we checked in for our flight to Cusco – once again LAN very good, on time.  We were met at the airport and went to Casa Andina Private Collection Hotel where we were to stay for 3 nights.  Lovely hotel built around 2 courtyards.  Walked up to the main square and had lunch on a balcony – we had been advised to eat lightly so I had a delicious bowl of local soup and an omelette whilst David had a local chicken dish.   Wandered around – lovely day with blue sky – bought a lovely baby alpaca cardigan.

In the evening we ate at the hotel restaurant – Alma – Cocina Viva – I had soup and David had trout.  Early night as we had been up so early for catch the flight!

22nd October

Whilst the hotel is very lovely we were in room 101 and at 5.45am the guests started parading through the corridor outside – en route to Machu Picchu/Sacred Valley – very difficult to sleep and most seemed to be very jolly enquiring how their fellow travellers slept and dragging their suitcases noisily along!!

However, we took a taxi to Poroy Station just outside Cusco and boarded the Hiram Bingham train to Machu Picchu.  Luxury train which clattered along for nearly 4 hours – the observation car was open at one end and we could just gaze at the passing scenery.  There was a 3 piece band on board and they were extremely good – our guide (Carlos) joined in most of the songs and waved a tambourine (or something like it) and we were treated to breakfast and then brunch.  On arrival at Agues Calientes we were taken through the local market and boarded an old bus and went up a very windy steep road to Machu Picchu – bit of a panic as they asked for passports which we did not have but our UK driving licences were accepted.  We were treated to a 3 hour tour of the magical Inca site – built around 1530 – took many iconic photos and we were so lucky that the sun shone and the rain stayed away.  After the tour we went to The Sanctuary for afternoon tea.  Back on the bus and down the hill to reboard the train.  Great supper served on the way back and we arrived back about 2115.

23rd October

At last a morning at leisure – had a late breakfast and then tried to check in for our flights tomorrow for Lima/Santiago – what a saga – it took over an hour on the phone to LAN to sort the check in – at first I thought we might not make the flight to Lima as it seemed oversold but managed to persuade the chap on the phone to find us seat numbers which he did.

We had a city tour with Edwin in the afternoon – funny chap – seemed at a bit of a loss as to what to say – we first went to The Convent of Santo Domingo del Cusco to see some Inca temple/ruins and then off to visit Saqsayhuaman – about 10 minutes drive out of Cusco – huge rock boulders had been built on top of one another.  We then went back to town and visited the Cathedral which was lovely inside and enormous – had a black Christ on a crucifix with an Inca skirt.  Quick whizz round as we had arrived only 20 minutes before the church closed.

Back to hotel and changed and went to Meson de Don Thomas for dinner – local restaurant complete with 4 piece band – David started with soup which included an egg and we both had alpaca for our main course….dreadful coffee – their cappuccino machine had broken and they convinced us they could make similar – but it was ghastly!!

As we had already packed we went back to the hotel for a relatively early night

CHILE

24th October

Early pickup at 7.30am for the airport – flight to Lima was delayed by 30 minutes but we did arrive on time!  Wandered around the shops – nothing to buy and went for a snack/drink in the VIP lounge….  Flight was due to depart at 1300 but when we got to the gate there was no aircraft – not a good sign…the flight would be 40 minutes late!!  So we walked back to the lounge….back to the gate 40 minutes later and they were calling David’s name…never a good sign!  the LAN representative was clutching 2 wallets….the aircraft had been changed and there was no bushiness class nor premium economy on the flight and to top it all we were not even going to sit together in economy.  However he was offering $1,030 each as compensation – this now totals $1,710 each from LAN…will pay for the sumptuous meals we will eat in Chile!!!!

met on arrival by Valentina – our guide for the trip – and taken to the Santiago Park Plaza Hotel – faded splendour but with jolly good restaurant§ and nice staff

25th October

Had city tour of Santiago – wonderful wide avenues with many statues in the middle. Saw changing of the guard at the palace and had a wonderful lunch at the Fish Market – much variety and tasty.

After lunch it was off to the Undaggara vineyard for a tour of the grounds/winery and then wine tasting…no good for David nor I!

In the evening we took a taxi to Patio area in the Bellavista area where there were many restaurants to choose from….we opted for a steakhouse.

26th October

Ridiculously early start with 5.30am wakeup call so we could have breakfast and leave at 6.40am for the airport for our 2 hour flight to Calama.

We all jumped into small coach and drove 55miles to San Pedro where we checked into the Altiplanico Hotel – splendid small hotel. We were then sauntered the 1/2 mile or so into town for lunch. Very small town with really only one main street which has lots of restaurants, small tourist shops and shops selling excursions. Had reasonable lunch and then walked back. It was exceedingly hot and dusty…..

4.30pm we were collected and taken to the Valley of the Moon for a sandy walk and then to see the sunset on a sandy ridge – back to the hotel for dinner…I didn’t make it – far too tired!!

27th October

Full day tour to Laguna Cejar – a salty lake where David went floating..very hot but the water was very cold!

We went on to see the Salar de  Atacama – one of largest salt lakes in the world – we stopped en route to visit Toconao – a small village with buildings made entirely from white volcanic stone – we went to a small house where a local woman made woollen items by knitting with cactus needles – we bought scarves for David, Christine and Gilliey.  From there we went to see the Laguna Chaxa – part of the Reserva Nacional de los Flamingos where there were lots of flamingos….but before visiting here we had had a packed lunch in the middle of nowhere under a picnic roof area surrounded by trees…most odd as we were in the desert!  In the evening we took a taxi into San Pedro where we had a great local food supper -

28th October

We had the opportunity to visit a geyser some 90 miles away up a dirt road leaving at 0630 – we declined and spent a day at leisure…lazy morning reading by pool, taxi into town with Tina, a little shopping and great lunch at La Casouna – local restaurant….apple soup, chicken with mash potato followed by papaya.  Taxi back to hotel and time to relax.

Dinner at hotel – good food

29th October

9.30am start for Calama Airport for flight to Santiago and on to Puerto Montt – sadly LAN had rescheduled the flights and we had rather a wasted day waiting around Santiago Airport for our onward flight.

We missed our tour of Puerto Varas in the evening as we arrived so late – checking into the Cabana Del Lago Hotel – we had the smallest room possible with a cupboard for a bathroom…dreadful

30th October

Up bright and early for a full day visit to the Orsono Volcano – stunning unexpected scenery along the shore of Lago Llanguihue with fabulous views of Orsorno and Calbuco volcanoes.  We walked on a rocky path and were suddenly at the Saltos de Petrohue (Petrohue Rapids) – wonderful scenery – a series of rapids and waterfalls which were formed long ago by cooling lava from the volcano forming a barrier to the river.

We drove on to Lago Todo los Santos and had a cruise on a small boat around the lovely lake.  Afterwards we had lunch at the Petrohe Hotel – wonderful hotel with fab views – food was local and lovely.  On the way back to Puerto Varas we drove up to the lower reaches of the Orsorno Volcano complete with ski lifts and tacky shops.  Here 2 young girls turned up with a wheelbarrow containing 9 puppies….trying to give them away as the mother had lost interest in feeding them.  Our driver succumbed and we drove back to the hotel with a whimpering puppy in a cardboard box!  Tina, David and I left the coach in town and went to look for a place to eat.  It was the beer festival which we steered clear of and found a lovely bar on the first floor of a wooden building.  Next to it we found a lovely shop with lots of great clothes.  Next to the shop was a great seafood restaurant – we share a huge starter of King Crab which was very tasty.

31st October

Should have left the hotel at 0630 for our flight to Punta Arenas but sadly we were caught up in ash cloud of a volcano some miles away.  It was affecting the Chile Lake District and Buenos Aires so we were grounded!  This turned into a lovely day of rest…reading, long lunch and a good supper at the Mediterranean Restaurant – I had a chicken stew whilst David had a beef one…both very tasty – highly recommend the restaurant – on the seafront.

What this did mean was that we would miss our night in Puerto Natales but were promised we would not miss any of the sights.    So we had a third night at the Cabana del Lago (seen better days) and fortunately they moved us out of our cupboard to a junior suite for the last night.

1st November

Finally we were able to leave Puerto Montt for Punta Arenas – a 2 hour flight after which we drove for nearly 3 hours to the Torres del Paine National Park – long day but stopped many times to take photographs – lucky as the weather was clear and bright and the photos were great.  We stopped at Lake Azul which sadly was grey as the sun had gone in but did get many views of different angles of the Cuerno del Paine (Hornes of Paine) – stunning stunning views – quite breathtaking and different from every angle – you just cannot help yourself taking more and more photographs.

We checked into the Rio Serrano Hotel…modern and recently refurbished – large and a little impersonal but the views from the rooms were spectacular…dinner at the hotel was chronic…a buffet which looked totally unappetising and very expensive…I have soup and David had a plate of food….not good!

2nd November

Up really early as we were going on a boat ride round Lago Grey to see the glacier – walk through a small forest and over a wooden bridge which swayed over a river!!

In the afternoon we toured the National Park and had some free time in the afternoon which we relished and sat and read in front of a roaring fire – sadly the view of “The Horns” totally disappeared in mist – really strange experience as we knew this fabulous sight was right in front of us and it was as though a curtain had been pulled in front of it.

In the evening we had a hilarious evening at a restaurant within walking distance of the hotel – atrocious food, service and it was cold.  They got our drinks wrong, and our main courses were also wrong and cold!!

At least they acknowledged this and our meal was complimentary – sad really as we left hungry!

3^rd November

We set off for our night in Punta Arenas stopping en route at Estancia Rio Penitente – an estancia establish in 1891 by Scottish pioneers – wonderful old house with a sheep farm run by a lovely lady.  We had a tour of the farm, saw a sheep being sheered and then were treated to a tasty lamb lunch

Onwards to Punta Arenas where we stayed one night in Cabo de Hornos – we had a quick drive around the town and had supper in the hotel.

4^th November

Early start back to the airport for our flight back to Santiago via Puerto Montt.  Fortunately the ashcloud had now subsided and we flew straight through.

Back to Santiago Park Plaza Hotel for the night and we had dinner there as our flight the next morning to Buenos Aires was as 0845.

ARGENTINA

5^th November

Lan flight to Buenos Aires landed around lunchtime and we took a taxi (book in arrivals hall before you get into the main part of the airport) to our hotel – Marriott Plaza Hotel in Plaza San Martin.  Old fashioned hotel which was sadly in need of a refurb.  However, a really joy was finding a restaurant that we had visited 24 years ago – El Estrablo – a great steak place and we had a real lunch treat.

Once settled in our room in late afternoon we ventured out for supper in Calle Florida – a pedestrian street which certainly comes alive at night with many street sellers plus the shop keepers vying for trade.

6^th November

We had heard about San Telmo as a great place to visit on a Sunday and it was a joy – great street market and wonderful antique shops – we had a “local” breakfast in the market and wandered happily around for most of the day – stopping only for lunch at a typical restaurant.  The weather was kind and warm.  The evening we had room service…what a luxury.

7^th November

Sadly Buenos Aires does not have a lot to offer – its streets are littered with rubbish and there is much graffiti – we toured the Teatro Colon – the opera house which apparently has perfect acoustics and walked around the area – there are wide boulevards with lovely statues down the centre but the traffic is chaotic and it is surprising that we did not see accidents.  We did discover Puerto Madero which is similar to Shad Thames in London – lots of good restaurants along the river and ate a great lunch at Happenings

8^th November

Last day – David went off to see the botanical gardens whilst I went to see the Evita Museum – we had supper at El Estrablo and finished our tour with a tango show in San Telmo – great ending to a wonderful month.

9^th November

British Airways brought us safely back to the UK……